The Birth of Dharamsala and the British Influence
In the mid-1800s, the British influx transformed Dharamsala into a prominent hill station in Northern India. It was chosen as the Kangra district’s headquarters, and McLeodganj, named after Sir Donald Friell McLeod, the Lieutenant Governor of Punjab, became a preferred retreat for the British. As British soldiers and civilians settled, so did businesses catering to their needs.
It was in this climate that Nowrojee & Son emerged as the first general store in the area. From its inception in 1860, the store provided essential goods like medicines, groceries, household items, wines, and petrol. Remarkably, it also sold popular local produce such as pickles, jams, and butter made by the indigenous Gaddi tribes.
At the time, McLeodganj was a sleepy, picturesque hill station, but Nowrojee & Son quickly became an integral part of the town’s daily life, serving both British officials and local Indian communities.
A Store That Spanned Generations
The Nowrojee family’s influence grew alongside McLeodganj. The shop’s legacy spans five generations, with each generation witnessing significant transformations in the town’s socio-political fabric. The store’s success peaked under Nauzer Nowrojee, a beloved figure known for his entrepreneurial spirit and close ties with the community.
Nauzer, who was born on September 11, 1915, inherited the store at the age of 23 and saw it through some of its most dynamic years. His tenure witnessed the growth of the store into a landmark, selling everything from aerated drinks and newspapers to unique items like cigarettes and toffees displayed in distinctive jars. Despite changing times, the store’s iconic signboard always retained the words, "Nowrojee & Son. Wine and General Merchants."
The Nowrojee family not only contributed to McLeodganj’s economy but also to its culture. Outside the store, an open space became the site of an annual fair held by the Gaddi tribes, an event that locals eagerly anticipated every year.
Historical Challenges and Resilience
The Nowrojee family’s resilience was perhaps most evident in their response to the 1905 Kangra earthquake, which caused widespread destruction in the region. While many inhabitants moved to Lower Dharamsala for safety, the Nowrojee family stayed, continuing to run the store with renewed determination. This decision became a testament to the family’s enduring connection to the region and its people.
As McLeodganj and Dharamsala continued to grow, the store stood as a reminder of the region’s rich history, even as the town around it changed.
A Friendship with the Dalai Lama
The shop’s connection to history is further deepened by the close friendship between Nauzer Nowrojee and His Holiness the Dalai Lama. Nauzer and His Holiness shared a bond that lasted over 60 years. Nauzer, always a prominent figure in McLeodganj, was entrusted with the keys to various British bungalows when British families hastily left India after independence in 1947. His friendship with the Dalai Lama symbolized a bridge between the town’s colonial past and its new identity as a haven for Tibetan exiles.
A particularly touching anecdote from Nauzer’s life was his last meeting with the Dalai Lama. A day before Nauzer passed away in 2002, the Dalai Lama, while passing by in his car, stopped to greet his old friend one last time. This poignant encounter encapsulated their enduring friendship.
The End of an Era
In the early 21st century, McLeodganj transformed dramatically, driven by a surge in tourism, infrastructure, and commercial development. What was once a serene hill station gradually became a bustling destination filled with concrete structures, busy markets, and tourist hubs. The Nowrojee family, after a protracted 16-year legal battle, finally decided to sell the property.
Parvez Nowrojee, Nauzer’s son, explained that the decision to sell was a difficult one. The store had lost its original charm in a town now overrun by commercialization. The serenity that once characterized McLeodganj was replaced by concrete buildings, and the area in front of the store was taken over by a bus and taxi stand. Parvez remarked, “It was no longer the town we had grown up and fallen in love with.”
The closure of Nowrojee & Son was heartbreaking for locals and long-time visitors alike. Prem Sagar, a local businessman, expressed the collective sentiment, saying, “This store is witness to many historic events and how the towns of Dharamsala and McLeodganj evolved. But change is the law of nature, and this is how history is created.”
A Symbol of McLeodganj’s Evolution
Nowrojee & Son was more than just a store; it was a cultural institution that mirrored the evolution of Dharamsala and McLeodganj. From being the only general store in the area during the British era to serving international tourists decades later, it played a significant role in shaping the town’s identity.
The store’s closure marks the end of an era for McLeodganj. The once-iconic structure has been replaced by a multi-storey building, most likely a hotel. Yet, its memory continues to live on in photographs, stories, and the nostalgia of those who visited it.
As Dharamsala grows and changes, Nowrojee & Son General Merchants will forever remain a cherished part of its history — a reminder of a simpler time when the town was still nestled in the tranquillity of the Dhauladhar ranges, and a small general store served as its heart.
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